A NEW (OLD) GREEK SALAD

Confession: I don’t love making salad—washing, chopping, and fussing over greens and vegetables.

But, I love eating salad. I crave a bit of fresh and crunchy every night. One summer, trying to feed us all well between a glut of parties, trips and fairs, I fell back on my old standby: Greek salad. I started with the classic—hunks of cucumbers, tomato, onion, feta, and olives, but as I subbed in any other vegetables that appeared in my CSA box week by week—fennel, peaches, tomatillos—it hit me: Greek salad isn’t just a salad, it’s a formula, and the best one for winning at getting more vegetables on your plate.

Try it! It goes like this..

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Sarah Copeland
BRAISED SHORT RIBS // AN EASY, HOLIDAY MEAL

Hello, I wanted to talk about holiday menus today—do you have strong feelings about holiday foods? (As in: Easter calls for ham, it’s not passover without Aunt Betty’s macaroons or Christmas without an epic Bûche de Noël?)

I’ve spent many holidays—especially Easter—with friends, at various potluck style buffets that just as easily might include ham and honey biscuits as it does the famous Konbi’s Japanese Style Egg Sandwich, Hot Cross Buns, Kimchi, and Zalabya. I love this about New York.

I learned living away from home all those years that there are many ways to holiday, and holiday well, in any season. In my newsletter this week—I’m sharing a little holiday formula I developed for myself when I’m hosting or planning a holiday, to keep it flexible and low stress.

One key part of the formula is what I call the centerpiece: a super-star, highly flavorful and big on satisfaction kind of dish delicious, low-stress, easy to serve and with plenty to go around. Braised Short Ribs—especially ones laced with ginger, rice vinegar, garlic and soy sauce—fit the bill beautifully. They are fall-off-the-bone tender, decadent but with the richness cut over soft white Basamati rice and crisp radishes or snap peas.

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Sarah Copeland
LIGHTEST LEMON RICOTTA PANCAKES

We’re two months deep into a New Year, and tons of the things I planned on bringing you in January and February faded behind the blur of snow days and school closings, two weeks of construction (we have new wood floors!!) and occasional escapes to the mountains to ski. I am learning to have a looser grip on all the things I’ve planned (including my kids staying little forever) and riding the wave. I like this looser version of myself, but it’s not always quite as productive.

No matter, sometimes time gives us new and necessary inspiration. So let’s get right to it—these Lemon Ricotta Pancakes are light, ethereal, beautiful and easy to make—and they really take to any topping you can think of.

I made them during a blustery white squall last week that left us with another dusting of powder—and they are very apropos apres ski feeling fare (something about the lemon! And Egg? And the souffle-like quality of the egg whites folded in? We pretended we were in Austria).

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LENTIL SOUP || ALL THE WAYS

Hello! How is everyone doing this side of the ball drop? We are good—healthy, which feels like a small miracle. Feeling more playful (also miraculous—levity always is). And still experiencing the same waves of energy that have categorized the last two pandemic years.

The good news: there are recipes specifically made for this kind of cycle; Fall-back recipes that are always nourishing and delicious, that flex beautifully with ambition yet offer ease, when needed. Like today.

One such recipe—Red Lentil Dal— is the very thing I cook most often; the soup that is on our table once a week in any season, and any year—certainly the last three. It’s everything you need it to be, every time.

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MORTADELLA AND FONTINA SLAB PIE || FOR THE NEW YEAR

Have you ever made a slab pie? Like a giant pop tart, or an epic hand-pie? It’s something I grew up with—my grandmother was an amazing heirloom baker with the recipes for cobbler and sour cherry slab pies all sealed in her head. But even if yours wasn’t, you’ll find tons of recipes for slab pies floating around these days. They’re simpler to make than most round, deep-dish pies and perfect for serving a crowd.

This one, above, comes from my friend Stacey Adimando, author of the book PIATTI, and creator of many other amazing things (including many magazine articles, a darling daughter and a future business I can’t wait to get a peek at.) Stacey and I have worked together for years off an on, crossing paths at Saveur, Everyday with Rachel Ray, and Sunday Suppers. We are both NYC transplants to the Hudson Valley (her several years after me…we all find our way eventually). As importantly, we share a love of unfussy good living, the work that goes into sustaining a thriving kitchen garden, effortless entertaining, and— savory slab pies.

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FLAWLESS (+ EASY!) FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

In early December, I start cataloguing all the gorgeous things I will bake—our annual Yule Log and epic gingerbread projects, three-tiered Christmas cakes with wrinkly chocolate bark up the sides—bookmarking recipes and instagram posts in files labeled CHRISTMAS BAKES that dates back a decade deep.

My sister and I send these things back and forth to each other with notes like “this one?” or “sooo pretty—let’s try this!” And then, as the days get closer simply “if we had to choose just one thing, would this one be it?”

By the time we actually all arrive home, just days before Christmas, the agenda is big and the days short, not to mention that there are presents to wrap, plus 18 mouths to feed three times a day. In short, sometimes ambitious baking projects don’t make the cut. But this cake? This always makes the cut.

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CRINKLY GINGER MOLASSES COOKIES

If you had to choose only one cookie for the rest of your life and only that cookie, forever, which would it be?

I know, that’s just plain mean. But if I absolutely had to choose, my desert island cookie would be ginger molasses. Even over my favorite chocolate chip. (Yes, shocking). I admit that our proximity to Christmas might make me slightly biased in this choice, but truly—-a chewy, slightly tangy ginger-forward cookie doesn’t get old for me. It very rarely risks being too sweet, or too dry or too meh—which frankly a lot of cookies of the world can be.

A good molasses cookie is a memory. It’s a feeling—a whole mood.

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TRIPLE GINGER-CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES

Do you ever have a cookie that you just can’t get out of your mind? Maybe it’s the first taste of a Levain bakery cookie on a visit to NYC. Maybe it’s your grandmother’s ginger-molasses…or the very first bit of the simple Tollhouse cookie of your youth, fresh from your mother’s oven.

For me, there are a few ultimate cookies. Dorie Greenspan’s World Peace Cookies (any version—her latest 2.0 appears in her latest book, Baking with Dorie) is one of them. This cookie—-A Triple-Ginger Chocolate Chunk Cookie, in Susan Spungen’s excellent book Open Table that came out right as the pandemic hit, is another. Just looking at these photos can warm me head to toe. I can feel the melt of that chocolate, the crisp edge the dusting of sugar gives the edges. And that’s just the photo. Wait until you make them.

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ICED SNICKERDOODLES + (A SNICKERDOODLE CAPPUCCINO)

Iced cookies. Every child’s dream—according to the rate at which my kids put back every frosted cookie they’ve ever seen. I don’t make iced cookies very often. Usually, we like our cookies just shy of indulgent; you can justify eating more of them that way (yes?). Come the holidays, though, all bets are off. What’s a cookie box without a little frosting?

I didn’t grow up with snickerdoodles. My mom was a chocolate chip purist, with crispy iced sugar cookies in perfect shapes thrown in for holidays—-but a good snickerdoodle reminds me so much of the chew of my grandmother’s soft sugar cookies, which she kept in a red-ear-tipped kitty cookie jar on her kitchen counter (which now sits on mine).

By definition, a snickerdoodle’s “flourish” is it’s cinnamon sugar coating, so there’s little need for more. Snickerdoodles tend to loose their luster on holiday spreads, though; they’re a bit, brown, ya know? Why not frost them? And then add more cinnamon sugar? After all, many of us have elves to feed.

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HONEY GRAHAM CRACKER SQUARES

Let’s get this right out in the open: Some people’s aggressive (public) holidaying has had me in hiding the last few weeks. Well, not hiding exactly, but hunkering inside, holidaying with my own people—privately (ie. off the ‘gram and other social). It’s not that I’m a scrooge or Bah! Humbug! Far from it. I live for Christmas. We got our tree the Sunday after Thanksgiving (a real beaut), it’s officially trimmed (this year, I hunted down charming old vintage ornaments that make me happy every time at look at them) and All I Want for Christmas radio on Pandora (yes, still Pandora!) is playing around the clock.

Also, there have been cookies: lots of cookies, and it’s only just beginning.

But, when other people’s tinsel-dripping twelve-foot trees and perfectly gilded mantles have you feeling envy, instead of inspiration, it’s time to tun out. Is the point of holiday-ing to spread joy, or to show off how much you have it together in life?

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RADICCHIO WITH FETA, PISTACHIOS AND SALTED HONEY

Hi friends! Happy December. I’m about to shower you with a half-dozen new cookie recipes in the next two weeks, so how about a palate cleanser before we begin?

We spent thanksgiving this year with dear friends who hail from California and Spain, and our menu was tapas style—croquettas and Spanish tortilla, Jamón and Manchego, along with pickled mushrooms, homemade focaccia, confited turkey and many shaved salads (like this one). I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, shaved bitter salads are the unsung hero of holidays meals, so I’m sharing another with you, from Food52’s latest book, Big Little Recipes, by Emma Laperruque.

The genius of this salad is in its simplicity—radicchio, feta, pistachios and honey—just five (yes five!!) ingredients. In short: EASY. There’s always time to make this salad, even amidst the business (and busy-ness) of holidays.

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GLAZED APPLE CIDER DONUT CAKE

Last month, we took our kiddos up the mountain to fish and shoot bows. It was a sparkling fall day, crunchy leaves and just enough breeze to make it feel like legitimate sweater weather. Matyas caught a fish. Greta got a bullseye. I got my feet wet. As in, really wet. In all the excitement of trying to help Matyas reel in his first ever fish (read: BIG excitement!), I walked right into the pond.

We had planned to go out for cider donuts afterward, but wet feet foiled our after-party. We detoured straight for home, everyone’s sweet tooth still kicked into high gear. There were words. Some boys (and grown men) don’t deal well with disappointment.

You shouldn’t feel too bad for them—we’ve had our fair share of excellent apple cider donuts this season. But when I ran into a Bourbon Bundt Cake recipe that looked wildly tender, it struck me as an easy remake: cider donut vibes, but with tender chunks of apple baked in. Good news—it worked (!), maybe a little too well. We ate the whole cake in one sitting.

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BITTER GREENS SALAD WITH CITRUS AND HAZELNUTS

And so it begins, a five month-addiction to citrus fruits that starts just shy of thanksgiving and doesn’t end until the snow thaws. I’ll be finding little orange-hued peels on side tables and radiators and under the couch until I’m filled with deep regret…except breaking the habit for my kids means no more succulent little snacks at my desk-side, either. So I’ll keep buying—rather hoarding them—by the bushelful.

Citrus is a winter game changer—between meals, certainly, but at them, too. They are single-handedly responsible for keeping salads on our table even when my body craves warm, filling foods. Because a little citrus-laced salad, actually, is the thing that makes warm, filling foods that much more delicious. Take Thanksgiving….

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DOUBLE CHOCOLATE BUCKWHEAT-FENNEL CRINKLE COOKIES

One of the first truly remarkable cookies I learned to bake when I became a professional cook was a chocolate crinkle cookie, which we made in the tiny pastry kitchen at Savoy restaurant, a then New York Times three-star restaurant where I cooked and baked under Peter Hoffman. We made 2 perfect cookies which appeared on the pastry menu night after night, along with a seasonal pastry and three delicate sorbets. Later, at Cafe Boulud, where I worked the pastry line, I learned the recipe for two more perfect cookies—the recipes for which I jotted down in a tiny notebook that I now keep in a safe, like a brick of gold.

Bad cookies are a dime a dozen, but truly great ones come from truly great, thoughtful bakers. Bakers who don’t want to eat sugar just because. Bakers who want you to feel treated without tipping the scales. Bakers who know your time and ingredients are precious and when they give you a cookie recipe, it’s going to be truly worth it.

My friend Aran Goyoaga is such a baker.

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WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH CROUTONS AND SHAGGY KALE PESTO

When I get a chance to dip out of my own world, and into the world of another food writer I know and trust—to see how they do family dinner, to taste life at their table—it’s always a little lift. Jenny Rosenstrach of Dinner A Love Story, the beloved blog and book by the same name, is exactly such a person. Her girls are nearly grown now, but over the many years her work has crossed my path (we share Real Simple roots), I’ve watched the way she serves and celebrates her family with a seemingly bottomless cup of enthusiasm, joy and maybe a little duty sprinkled in, because let’s face it—even with love, there’s still days we’d just have to show up because our people are hungry.

Jenny is the queen of smart, unfussy family meals. She knows what kids will willingly eat, that will still satisfy grown-ups at the table. To wit: her Easiest White Bean Soup, pictured here, which I enjoyed for a late lunch earlier this week.

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RECIPESSarah Copelandsoup
MISO DARK CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

In the previous several years of having school-aged kids, my kiddos have had babysitters, after-school clubs or play groups to entertain them after hours many days of the week, while I worked. Now that they’re bigger, it’s strangely possible to pick them up from school, buzz them home for a snack and set them loose to run in the yard, while I aim (key word: aim) to get a few more things done at my desk, in earshot of where they play. It’s a system I’m slowly adjusting to: our new After School. Mostly, I like it.

Some days, After School comes hard and fast. On those days, cookies help, especially a week out from halloween, when we’ve got chocolate on the brain. This mama especially likes it if the cookies have an element of intrigue, like MISO.

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PUMPKIN-MISO RAMEN WITH KALE, CRUSHED PEANUTS AND CHILE OIL

oh, hello!!

This summer we traveled to Hungary and Croatia, dipped in the sea, visited family, nourished our garden, played, hiked, and nearly burned all our masks—then promptly bought 1,000 more and re-enrolled the kids in school at the very last second. Because, well, rhythm.

So here we are: back to a rhythm-ish.

The first few weeks home from Europe I cooked Hungarian food madly, like a woman in love. Two weeks later I told my family I hated family dinner and took the entire week off (refreshing! They all survived). We’ve since landed somewhere in the middle….I’m cooking three to four meals a week from my book Instant Family Meals— falling in love with the ease and satisfaction of Instant Pot dinners all over again. I’ve dipping back into our fall favorites like Pumpkin Waffles (for weekend mornings), Pozole Verde (dreamy leftovers for days), Turkey Meatball Soup (a please-all!), Spinach Pie (a grown-up favorite), and no-fuss risotto (like this one) with next-day arancini on repeat.

We’re thriving then stumbling then thriving again.

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SAVORY GRANOLA BOWL

We are back from our first (airplane) trip this side of the pandemic, and I have to say, I feel so alive. Yes, it was scary getting on a plane with so many people (all masked, and impressively respectful). Yes, it felt like a risk to take my un-vaccinated kids along. But there is no life without risk. And on the other side of the flight was a wedding for my oldest and dearest friend Heather, and four days with my parents, my sister, and Heather’s whole extended family—who are family to me, too. Those hugs felt incredible.

What was also wildly incredible was not cooking for five solid days. Five days of restaurant meals (mostly outdoors)—with zero prep, cooking or cleaning by me. What a gift. We ate blueberry pancakes and fish tacos, saag paneer and papadum, plus piles of sushi, eggplant parm and luscious, tender BBQ’d brisket. I feel utterly nourished, by the friendship, the meals, and the newness of being somewhere other than home again (bonus: Colorado’s dining scene has wildly exploded since my last trip!).

Somewhere between Tibetan dumplings and slurpy, decadent udon soup, a fire lit inside of me—I want to cook! bake! shoot! In short, I am ready to create for you, again. First up, this Savory Granola Bowl—alive with flavor and texture—and all the nourishing things spring has on offer: from snap peas and radishes to (finally!) fresh herbs from the garden again.

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JOHNNY CAKES WITH RHUBARB AND SOUR CHERRIES

Hello, there. I have to admit I nearly forgot about this space in the months that have passed. Things are starting to open up—schools and shops and a life we once knew, and with it, all the feelings. So many feelings. I have a lot to say about that, but for now, mostly the feeling that is sticking with me is hope: a hope to preserve some of what we’ve had in these times, some of what we’ve learned. The slowness and still. Silver linings.

On the other side of a pandemic (nearly, though not yet..) my kids feel gigantic. Still always hungry, but with the opportunity to head to restaurant every now and again, to play with a friend in the neighbor’s yard, who might feed them a grilled cheese while they’re there—the chore of feeding my people three meals a day around the clock forever and ever amen feels suddenly lighter. It’s spring, too, of course. Spring has a way of bringing new energy—this year more than ever. The garden feels like a literal miracle, after months of hibernation and snow. And every green—or sometimes pink (Swiss chard! Rhubarb!) —thing that is popping up feels more like gold than something we will merely harvest and consume. I spend hours looking at every new bud longingly, this year through new eyes.

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DECADENT (INSTANT POT) CHOCOLATE PUDDING

This seems like a chocolate pudding weekend. Anyone else feeling it? Not quite deep winter, but not yet spring. Snow melting, but with no spring break plans in sight. That spells chocolate, and a slow burn on comfort food for me. Not the gooey pasta bakes and endless pots of stew of February, but something a bit more, well, hopeful. The twinkle through my windows tells me it’s not too risky to to cling to the light. And yet it’s not time for peas and asparagus, either.

So, pudding!

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