IN PRAISE OF TROPICAL FRUIT
For two decades, I’ve clung to the rules of local and seasonal—aiming to eat produce, dairy, meat and even raised within 100 miles from my home. But when winter hits hard and the CSA box is a repeat of celeriac and red cabbage, when the kids are plowing through more Kleenex than I can count and dark nights hit at a bracingly early 5 PM, there’s only one thing that can turn this ship around: tropical fruit.
I’ve been hooked on fresh pineapple since childhood, when my parent’s brought home a Maui Gold from a trip to Hawaii. It felt like a big deal (pineapple—not canned— was not easily found in the grocery store back then). But it wasn’t until my own trip to Hawaii and many a trip to Mexico, decades later, that I fell in love with Papaya—and fell hard. I get it, it’s not for everyone—but chances are if you don’t like it, you haven’t been shown how to enjoy it at it’s best. Currently, we get a daily dose of Papaya at breakfast, heavily laced with fresh lime juice, which is the absolute key to loving this musky, mysterious fruit. It’s also great with yogurt, lime and a dash of maple syrup—trust me on this. As for mango—it doesn’t need much introduction; what is not to love?
All of these fruits are absolutely loaded with vitamin C, minerals and soluble fiber, which we need tons of in any season, but especially now (adults need 5 to 13 servings of fruits and vegetables, each day).
Most tropicals, save Papaya, are lively and fresh and deeply flavored without a single thing added, but they do need to be properly selected, and stored to be enjoyed at their peak. Here, below, is everything you need to know.
ORIGINS
Pineapple: Pineapples are primarily grown in Costa Rica, Brazil, and southeast Asia. Still, a good portion of the pineapples we get in the US are grown in Hawaii, and the deepest golden-yellow-hued gems, labeled Maui Gold, are often the best. If you find one, grab it.
Mango: Most mangoes you find in the US were grown in Central and South America (primarily, Guatemala, Mexico, Haiti, Brazil and Peru), with a small crop appearing from time to time from Southeast Asia (these tiny gems are super juicy and sweet, and deeply orange. Even over-ripe, they’re amazing).
Papaya: If your Papaya comes from Hawaii, sadly, it’s like to be GMO (genetically modified). Avoid those. Look for Papayas grown in Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico or Belize, or hunt for ones labeled organic, which by law can not be GMO.
WHEN TO BUY (PEAK SEASON)
Pineapple (March to July) Though you can find fresh pineapple in stores any time of the year, they are best in late winter through early summer.
Mango (year round) If you live in the US, you can count on ripe mangos almost year round. You might find one of five varieties, depending on the time of year. Several types peak in winter, but fat and fleshy Tommy Atkins can be found all the way through through July and again in September and October. Kents peak from June to August, and again from December to February.
Papaya (year round) Papayas are fair game year round, but they may be slightly sweeter in summer and fall. In the winter, give them a double dose of lime.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Clear, unblemished skin without dents, bruises or soft spots is a hallmark of quality for all of these fruits. From there, how to tell a ripe, deeply sweet fruit from a dud is a quick learning curve. Here are the basics:
Pineapple: Look for bright skin with a lot of yellowing, and plenty of give in the crown (the long fronds that come out from the top). A super firm or deeply green pineapple will need a lot of ripening on the counter. You can also smell the root end (the base) for a sweet fragrance.
Mango: A ripe mango should give a little to the touch; It may have a blushy yellow or pink-red tone, depending on the variety, but touch is the best indicator (pick them as you would a ripe peach or avocado). A deeply firm mango with very green skin could take weeks to ripen, and some never do.
Papaya: Look for some give to the flesh, but avoid any with soft spots. Like mango, papaya’s fragrance is hard to detect in the store, especially if they are stored slightly cold. Instead, look for some yellowing or coral coloring in the skin. A firm, green papaya will need several days to soften before yielding it’s signature, impressively floral flavor. However, green papayas—firm and slightly tannic—are the basis for several southeast Asian salads; if you get one home, cut into it, and find it too firm to be enjoyed sliced or cut in pieces, try this Thai Green Papaya Salad instead.
HOW TO STORE + SERVE
Store all your tropicals at room temperature until the desired ripeness. If you live in a cold place, this could take longer—and likewise, they will last longer on the counter top. If you live somewhere warm, ripening and spoiling can happen more quickly. Keep them on the counter or in bowls (mine are in this crate, near my kitchen island) until ripe and juicy. Then trim and serve right away, or trim and store in the fridge, in air-tight containers, for up to two days.
Whole ripe fruits—whole pineapple, papaya or mango, can be stored in your produce drawer until ready to serve—about 4 days.
To Serve, skin fruits with a serrated knife (pineapple) or vegetable peeler (mango and papaya) and cut out any pits (mango), cores (pineapple) or seeds (papaya), saving only pineapple cores for smoothies (discard pits and seeds). Cut into thin slices or chunks and serve at room temperature.
That’s plenty to digest for now. I’ll dive into persimmon, pomegranate and citrus in the coming weeks to keep you in heaps of soul-satisfying, naturally sweet treats for the long winter ahead.
**This is not a sponsored post. All opinions are my own.**
photos by // Harrison Lubin
food styling // Sarah Copeland
bowl // LAIL Design