Did anyone else grab bananas by the armful on their last half-calm, half-frantic cruise through the grocery, that last time you went solo, the kids still in school. Maybe you kept your gloves on the whole time—the Coronavirus was already getting real, but not quite in your own backyard yet. Maybe you still bought strawberries and kale, but just in case everyone was right, you still stocked up on rice and beans and pasta and all the 28-oz cans of San Marzano tomatoes your shelves could fit. And bananas, obscene amounts of bananas.
Read MoreTiramisu is my dad and my husband’s favorite dessert--two of the people I love feeding most. But I didn’t make it for years, somehow recalling it from culinary school as a laborious task. How wrong I was. One night, I decided not to bring home the tempting piece hanging around in the Italian bakery window I passed on my way home from work, and instead make it myself. It was a slam dunk.
News flash: tiramisu is not only easy (provided you’re not making ladyfingers yourself), it is a built-in make-ahead. You can make this a day ahead, or even two, and still come out looking like an absolute star the day you serve it. Try it for yourself.
Read MoreThere’s a snow-storm here today, and my Alpine dreams are being made with a big bowl of steamy, cheesy risotto. We didn’t grow up eating much rice (aside from my mom’s amazing cashew chicken dinner—never enough cashews or snow peas, but i digress…), but as an adult, my forever comfort food is a creamy bowl of Cacio e Pepe style risotto. This is especially true in Winter, but solidified by our summer trip—my opinion is that it’s always a good day for risotto.
Cheesy risotto is a blank slate for any vegetable toppings you love (like shaved Brussel sprouts or crispy, wild mushrooms, as pictured here)—but can equally employ a festive topping of bright raw vegetables (think pea shoots and shaved radish, as seen below).
Read MoreI’m a bundt girl. Like, if my twenties were three-layer sponge cakes with silky butter creams and fresh cascading flowers, the following decade has been more bundt—still beautiful, but wildly unfussy—the kind of cake that turns heads with its smarts, as well as its style.
There have been plenty of layer cake holidays in my years— and years for epic bouche de noels with lovingly crafted meringue mushrooms— but this year I’m craving something a bit fairy tale, like Christmas in Brugge or a small German village. A cake that’s more Hansel and Gretel than Marie Antoinette.
Enter this all-butter-bundt, flecked with chocolate and spiked with whiskey. It’s tender and moist, but with enough structure that it can be wrapped and gifted to neighbors and friends in the days ahead. A brown-paper-package tied up with string, with the heady aroma of chocolate—that, to me, is Christmas.
Read MoreHave you been porridge-ing since I last wrote you (here)? I hope so. As promised I wanted to keep your porridge bowls at their most nourishing best with more porridge topping ideas. These don’t have to be complicated, for fussy.
One way I keep porridge topping fun and easy for everyone involved is to set up a quickie, DIY-porridge topping bar for my family twice a week. It may include my all-purpose-porridge topper (basically, stewed frozen fruits in pure maple syrup. Ratios are here), or a small tray lined with jars of honey, granola, jam, preserves, peanut/almond/pumpkin seed butter, apple butter and the like.
Read Moream not someone who makes pasta—or even craves it— very often. But every time I go to our favorite local grocer, I’m lured in by the pretty packages of over-the-top pasta shapes: Long, leggy noodles, big, chunky Tufoli, and lace-edged riginette or tripoline. Usually, I buy a package of some dreamy, only in Italy feeling shape, and then store it in little bit of empty space above the fridge (there’s never room in my pantry) dreaming and scheming for weeks about what it will become before I ever crack into it.
Such is the case for these extra fat Rigatoni, which yes, would make an excellent homemade mac-and-cheese, but for me, were calling: SOUP! A minestrone was in order. Chunky, warming, nutritious.
Read MoreI’ve been wanting to talk to you about porridge for a long, long time. Like many years. It wasn’t cool to talk about porridge until fairly recently, which is fine, because I never found the time anyway, but here’s the thing: Porridge—be it millet or oats or hot cereal or polenta, rice porridge or the like, is one of the simplest, most satisfying meals on the planet. It’s also incredibly easy to top and completely blow your kid’s minds (or your own) with a new and beautiful bowl any winter morning.
Read MoreI have a lot of favorite recipes in my most recent book, Every Day is Saturday, too many to name in a little intro like this, but if I had to give you one—just one—to start with, I might suggest starting here: an easy, please-all cake that can be fancied up with the help of a sturdy bundt pan
Bundt cakes are like modern miracles. They can transform the simplest cake into a pastry-shop-centerpiece, as long as you butter and flour them well. I love a bundt so much that when my friend Josh recently took a vintage kitchen haul off the street in his brooklyn neighborhood, I had to volley his wife, Doris (and my dear friend) for who would get to bake in her new //old beat up bundt pan, first.
But back to our bundt. The idea for this spot-on cake came from Sarah Kieffer’s (wonderful) Vanilla Bean Baking Book. I made it a half dozen times within the month the book arrived—a few years ago now—making my own tweaks for our mostly gluten-free, low-sugar household: adding almond flour, dropping the total sugar and using bitters instead of Grand Marnier. The result is still so crazy delicious, and leans just left of decadent—enough that you don’t feel so bad serving your kids leftover slices for breakfast the day after friends have come to call. You know the kind…
Read MoreI made soup: it’s NOT squash. This not-squash soup is my new cold weather favorite: creamy cauliflower soup topped with crispy chickpeas and radishes and per my usual, all the herbs and oil.
I absolutely love squash soup. I make it at least once a week, and it’s still something I’m likely to order from a restaurant menu on any given fall night. But sometimes we need to branch out, and when we do, this soup is here for you.
Read MoreRight now, my husband and children are sound asleep in a tent 50 feet from our kitchen door, where the air is cool and crisp. I wrapped myself around them, whispered (harmless) ghost stories and watched the fire crackle against the peaked, nylon ceiling before their eyes shuttered, releasing me to slink away... to put life back in order, to wash dishes, and set some dough to proof for the morning. Sometimes I envy the freedom of childhood, the sweetness of slumber not wrought with a list of to-dos, but more so I love my role as the magic maker—the one burning the midnight oil for tomorrow’s gain. Because it’s all moving fast: their childhood, this fall—already. I think that’s why I love cooking so much, it’s the only thing I can grasp to slow things down—to put a meal in front of them, to sit across the table from a girl who’s lost all signs of “early childhood”, from a boy who’s legs spring out from his pant legs again and again, inching us from babyhood to boyhood, ever quicker.
What has any of this to do with this soup? My dough is proofing and the bonfire is still flickering so here I sit, writing this recipe up for you as I promised I would, because all I know from where I stand is that maybe, just maybe, the right pot of soup can stop time for all of us—if only for a moment.
Read MoreBACK-TO-SCHOOL. I cringe at those words when I hear them in ads and get-organized campaigns. Yes, routine is good for us, but I miss the Indian summers of my youth, when creating structure (like homework nooks and regular meal times) wasn’t my responsibility. It's taken us a full four weeks to get back into the groove, but I’ll admit, having two kids in schools that have an actual start time—with a school bell—has created an order we haven’t known in eight years.
There’s been another game changer, too: Greta is super excited to help with way more meal prep, packing lunches and even tackling a few dinners on her own. The first thing I taught her to make is homemade Miso Ramen, with white miso paste, quick-cook ramen noodles, tofu, avocado and fresh greens or veggies she can pick from our garden. It's a super win for me (a healthy dinner I don't have to cook) and a pride point for my girl, who feels great about making a hot meal even her dad will devour.
Read MoreDid you know you can make risotto in the slow cooker?? (I KNOW!!!). My kids and husband love risotto, but I can’t always pull it off on a weeknight. Even though Italians consider risotto the ultimate fast food, the American brain auto-files it as fancy or complicated. It’s not, but it does require some standing and stirring, and on school nights (and work days), every minute counts.
So, gear up your slow cookers, your old grannie hand-me-down or a new fancy number like this one from Crate and Barrel that just come on the scene over here in my kitchen, and is already loved. Then, just follow along the recipe below. Mix in whatever veggies and greens float your boat, and serve with some serious pride—this beauty only took you about 15 minutes to prep, but they’ll never know.
Read MoreFall brings with it all the cravings, for cozy sweaters, roasted aromas, plums and grapes and pears and with them, the kind of creamy toasted…..
Something easy, but earthy. Something spectacularly seeming with a secretly low workload behind it. Goat cheese toast delivers on this. Starting with honey chevre, which has a subtle sweetness that makes it palatable to even my four-year-old, you can top it with
To amp up the wow factor, I’ve seasoned my honey chevre with fennel seed, black pepper and maldon, and served it potted like a pate might be on a cheeseboard. Then, I popped a few clusters of grapes into the oven at high heat with salt and pepper and oil and yes, more fennel. It’s surprising how this anise-forward seed brings out the best of fall, and doesn’t overpower the sweet grape but instead, tempers them just a bit, keeping them feeling savory.
Clip with small scissors or pull off individual grapes to top your toasts.
Read MoreWhen I entertain, I like there to be a main event--a centerpiece that speaks of abundance, but also ease: a signal to both me and my guests that there will be plenty here, but we can relax and settle into it without a lot of shuffling about. This main event should be made or purchased ahead, and can look like a giant pork shoulder braised to a juicy, succulent tenderness, or a bountiful wheel of cheese, a no-hold’s bar approach to the cheese platter that we’ve all grown to know and love. There’s no worry of leaving enough for the person to your right or your left, just a welcome mat to heartily enjoy.
Read MoreThere is so much I love about chocolate cake, starting with the fact that I’m sure it’s the first cake I ever ate, the kind of cake my mom always, always baked on our birthdays as children, and later, carted to us across the country (literally) in her double decker Tupperware cake carrier when we moved far from home.
Too often, I find the kinds of chocolate cakes at birthday parties or events spongy and bland, not chocolaty enough to satisfy, not toothsome in the way I believe a cake absolutely should be. Not so this cake, which comes to us from Odette Williams, from her new book, Simple Cake. Skip on down for the recipe, below.
Read MoreImagine your dreamiest chocolate sweet—the thing you’d eat with abandon if you could do so without consequence—if toothaches and stomach aches and snug waistbands were just the made up things of terrible fairy tales. Mine would be a Flødeboller, these chocolate dreams pictured above—though, I only recently learned that is what they’re called. I knew it in childhood simply as a chocolate-coated marshmallow treat—but not just any marshmallow—it would have to be an pillowy, airy, freshly made marshmallow without even the faintest resemblance to the kind you find in a bag (I’ll skip those all together, thank you). And not just any chocolate coating—the chocolate coating would be thin and snappy, and give to the slightest pressure from the tooth—made with the highest quality dark chocolate you can find (I link to one of my favorites for baking, below).
Read MoreThere is only one thing, in my opinion, that needs to be made on the week of Valentine’s day, and that is anything containing chocolate (and lots of it). It could be big or small, fancy or simple, but for my taste, it should come as close to an elevated form of a pure chocolate truffle as humanly possible. This tart is one I developed ages ago for my very first book, but it has stood the test of time, and lives up brilliantly to the call. Thanks to its press-in crust (no rolling or pastry mastery required), it couldn’t be simpler. The inside, little more than a glorified ganache, set and baked with an egg, is pure chocolate bliss. You’ll need a tart pan with a removable bottom, and the best chocolate bricks or bars you can find, and the rest is as simple as is gets.
Read MoreI wasn’t raised to toot my own horn, so sometimes I’m shy about sharing my new work, especially when it’s in the New York Times, which still makes me giddy. It was always my dream to be published there and even after years of publishing my recipes in magazines like Saveur, Food & Wine, Martha Stewart Living and Real Simple, this still feels big to me because I love the way they approach food—it’s smart, fresh, super universal (no culture left behind) and perhaps most importantly, massively vetted, with tried and true recipes you can absolutely trust.
Read MoreSorry for the crazy food porn. It’s for your own good. We’re taking a break from gift guide for a minute because pumpkin pie withdrawal is a real thing. Especially if, like me, you sort of skipped Thanksgiving this year and have had nary a sliver of whip-cream-topped pumpkin custard all season. It’s not good.
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